1. Adding the new firebox:
This
picture shows the appearance of the bottom of the Bachmann Shay as removed
from the box.
Remove the
Ash pan from the firebox by removing the 3 screws, Also remove the
trucks. Place all these items to the side and store the screws in the holes
of the removed parts. When done the bottom of your shay should look like the
next picture.
Remove the
2 screws that hold the Firebox/Engine assembly in place and Remove the
Assembly from the Model.
Now We need
to modify the Shays truss rods to accept the new firebox as follows. Using
your x-acto knife or a very fine pointed set of cutters remove the center
truss rods from the union where they are all joined as shown in the picture.
Be sure and remove the center rod on both sides of the the union. Using the
knife or a very small file, carefully make sure they are trimmed perfectly
flush on the face of the bracket facing toward the center of the model. Now
using a pin vise with the #70 or smaller drill bit carefully drill a hole in
the center of the union as close to the original point of the rod you just
removed as possible. Once all 4 are done move up to the #65 drill bit and
make all the holes larger. Verify the Truss Rods on the new firebox will
clear the holes. Note the Bachmann Truss rods are very flexible and
can be moved around quite a bit without damaging them. See the following
pictures for a little clarity.
At this
point We need to modify the original Bachmann fire box so the new conversion
firebox will fit over it. To avoid getting any filings or swarf in the
gearbox I recommend the following. The pictures will show how I did the
model pictured, but if desired the motor leads can be removed and this work
done away from the rest of the model. Carefully tape and cover all
openings into the Bachmann firebox/engine assembly by covering the engine
with a plastic bag or similar. Also place the rest of the model in a larger
bag. to keep filings from getting on it. All Grinding can be done with
a Dremel cut off wheel or sanding disc. We are removing the original firebox
brackets and making the side of the original firebox flat so the new
Rectangular shaped firebox will telescope over it and the New Firebox will
mount to the original Fire box's Ash pan screw holes. The following sequence
of pictures shows the fire box as it comes on the model, then taped, then
being ground down, then the finished changes, and then back in place mounted
on the model once all filings are cleaned away.
Now mount
the new firebox using the Original Screws which held the Original Ash pan in
place. You may need to enlarge the holes on the new firebox assembly
slightly as I had to on mine for the screws to clear properly. The screw
holes should line up perfectly if the proper amount of material has been
removed from the original Bachmann Firebox. You will now notice that the
truss rods coming from the firebox are too long. Align them with their
respective truss rod unions and cut them about 3/16" past the union as shown
in the picture. Now remove the new firebox assembly and get all the truss
rods in the holes of the 4 unions and mount the firebox. Note when all
finished you will have to carefully bend the new truss rods somewhat toward
the frame to make them look perfectly aligned with the rods that carry on to
the frame of the engine. Forward ones may have to be bent further to allow
clearance of the front truck swing freely when you replace the trucks.
We are now finished on the underside. Do not replace the trucks yet as they
will be in the way on the next step. See the pictures for clarity.
2. Adding the new Floor, Boiler, and Cab:
The laser
cut floor is an addition We made for 2 reasons. It makes a much more
realistic overall appearance to the model and also corrects a minor fit
problem of the Conversion parts. This floor has to be added in order for the
parts to fit properly. Remove the Tender by removing the three screws from
the locations shown in the first picture of these instruction. Now remove
the original cab and boiler by removing their mounting screws. The cab has
screw with a keeper that has to be removed, pop out the cab seats with a
small screw driver. Now you should be able to force the cab toward the
fireman's side and get it to break free. The smoke box front will have to be
removed and the wires removed from the headlight in order for the boiler to
come totally free from the model. Once loose cut any piping that is
glued to the floor and remove the cab and boiler. You will need to remove
the water pump from the deck as well. Now also remove the brake stand from
floor. You will now need to remove a few raised areas of metal on the floor
for the new wood floor to fit in place. Remove the three screws holding the
electronics board and place the board in the bag that the screws for the
conversion come in to keep any filings from getting on the board. Also tape
up the motor again to assure it does not get any filings on it as well.
Once again no wires have to be removed. Any raised areas on the deck
in the area where the original cab was located need to be ground flush and
any places where there were plastic pipes or parts needs to be trimmed
flush. Once this is done, clean up any filings and remove the bag from the
electronics board. Test fit the wood decking and if all lays perfectly
flat, then remove its backing paper and place the new decking on the model.
When finished re-mount the electronics board and the Tender. Pictures
of sequence shown here for clarity.
Now
Mounting the boiler and cab will require some minor adjusting and fitting so
take your time. Note that there is no application for the headlight
lighting with this kit. If you are adding a working headlight you will need
to do so at this time. The smoke box has a hole in the bottom to accept the
original Bachmann wires. The 1920's version has holes pre-drilled in the
headlight and its bracket, but holes will have to be drilled for wires to
get into the boiler. The 1890's versions do not have holes pre-drilled, but
a single hole can be drilled into the bottom for the lamp style of your
choice. This is this way because of so many variances of control systems
used and lighting requirements of those systems. Once you have made a
decision and taken care of the lighting situation it is time to mount the
boiler and cab. Place the boiler on the frame and fasten in place using one
of the screws provided with the kit at the original Bachmann boiler screw
location. Do not tighten the screw tight at this time. Now add the cab in
place. It has to slide forward from the rear and fit over the cab front on
the boiler. Add the three screws to hold down the cab. They fit through the
original Bachmann cab mounting slots. Do not tighten at this point. Make
sure everything aligns properly. The cab front may require a slight rearward
bend to get it to align perfectly with the cab. Once fitted in this fay make
sure the cab and boiler are square on the frame. If needed file the mounting
slots the screws pass through for the cab mounting until you are satisfied
with the fit. Once happy with the alignment and fit tighten all the screws.
Put the trucks back on the model and enjoy. Pictures shown here of mounted
boiler and cab.
We hope you
enjoy this model, and be sure and contact us with any questions or comments.
We will also love to see pictures of completed conversions from our
customers.
