On3/On30 BACHMANN SHAY CONVERSION

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS BY SAM BARBOSE

           Assembly Tips And Suggestions For The Wiseman Shay Conversion

 In the world of carpentry, the motto exists, “measure twice, cut once”.  Our motto for this build will be “test fit twice, affix once”.  The kit is a superb set of parts with excellent fit and finish.  The best suggestion I can offer for each segment of the build is to check your alignments and stock holes for correct fit and finish before applying either ACC or your solder to the parts and moving on to the next segment.  A good set of the proper tools is a must for a successful build as well.  I suggest you have a good selection of drill bits rail nippers and pin vises, along with jeweler’s five sided broaches to ream the holes if necessary. A good set of jeweler’s files is also crucial to file brass flash and any slight imperfections of the brass castings.  I used Dr. Mikes ACC to assemble the kit.  It is possible to assemble this kit with minimal soldering.  Please orient yourself with all of the parts names and part numbers before you begin.  Pictures of assembled unpainted models are shown below and on the advertising page. 

 Before beginning the assembly, certain deconstruction of the Bachmann Shay must take place first.  Please note the photo of the stripped chassis.  I chose to remove the trucks, bunker, stock boiler, cab and plumbing by removing the noted screws and tabs.  You will need to nip the stock wiring free as well.  Tuck it aside for later wiring of your new headlight.  The rear cab tabs can be nipped away since you won’t need the cab.  This would be a good time to remove the two screws that hold the motor, gearbox and engine assembly to the frame, then remove the two screws that secure the bottom portion of the boiler to the motor assembly.  This will allow you to lube the gearbox.  Reconstruct those parts and return them to the frame.  Careful check of any wires that may impede alignment must be checked and cleared for proper alignment before tightening.  I HIGHLY suggest you return all removed screws back to their respective holes so not to lose them, or forget what sized screw goes where, at a later time.

 NOTE:  Please check your kit for the following parts before beginning construction.  If you do not have the following parts included with your kit, contact Keith and he will gladly send you the parts;  one smokebox front number plate,  4 truss hanger brackets (kit will probably have 2) for the firebox and one waterglass for the backhead.

1.  Assembling The Boiler: 

 

I suggest beginning the kit with the assembly of the boiler.  Included with your kit are two domes that can be screwed into place.  DO NOT over tighten the screws.  You may warp the boiler or strip them in the domes.  The longer screw is for the steam dome.  I suggest you ACC or solder the domes as well. DO NOT affix the smoke box door and backhead until last.  You may need to get inside the boiler through these ends to complete assembly.  Please note the photos of the additional holes you will need to drill for the handrail posts and drill them before affixing the front posts and handrail wire.  You may need to carefully ream the posts for the wire to pass through smoothly.  It may be helpful to place the posts on the wire and glue/solder them from underneath, using the wire to align the posts.  You need to decide if you want posts off the front of the headlight bracket.  If you wish to use these posts, please remember to slide them onto the handrail wire before you affix the rest of the posts.  I chose not to utilize these posts, just solder the front handrail wire to the front of the headlight bracket.  I suggest completing the steam supply, exhaust plumbing and injector supply plumbing, headlight and headlight bracket at a later time. There is a faucet washer (screen) you can acquire from a hardware store that fits inside the stack, or you may scratch build a spark arrestor as I have done.

2. Assembling The Firebox And Ashpan: 

 

Before you can assemble and apply the new firebox/ash pan assembly to the stock chassis, you will need to remove the cast firebox truss rod supports from the round firebox.  Please note the photo.  Careful use of a power tool helps.  Cover all exposed motor surfaces and gearing with tape to prevent filings from entering, while grinding.

 

Please note the included photos to complete the firebox and ash pan assembly.  The open slotted side of the ash pan and the longer, open side of the firebox are assemble to the engine side of the Shay.  There are two shorter sides with slightly curved ends. The side with the higher side and recessed notched corner , installs to the rear of the locomotive.  When you assemble the four firebox sides, use a broach or toothpick to keep the holes aligned.  These holes later accept the firebox truss rod supports.  YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE the slotted piece of the ash pan and the slim side pieces of the firebox as noted in photo, AFTER you have assembled the five pieces.  As noted in the photo, you MAY need to file a slight recess in the front piece, to allow for the factory wiring to pass cleanly underneath.   If you do not, your firebox will not mount properly.  Before you attempt to screw the firebox/ash pan into place, check the alignment of the stock, screw holes.  You may need to, as I did, ream the holes to a larger diameter for the stock screws to pass through cleanly. A more suitable solution would be to remove more material from the firebox side to allow the screws to align properly.  Affix the four truss rod supports to the firebox.  If you set the assembly aside, return the mounting screws to their stock, respective holes.

3.  Cab Assembly:

 

Most of the cab has been assembled for you.  All you need to do to the assembled cab piece is install the shorter handrail posts, handrail wire and the inside window frames and sliding window panes, and lastly the roof vent.  As noted in the photo, you will need to drill four holes, not provided, into the front cab piece.  Two for the injector piping and two for the bell and whistle pull chords.  After you drill the holes, you need to affix the cab front to the boiler by carefully aligning the mounting tab and sides along the boiler band.  Check the alignment by sliding the remaining cab portion forward.  DO NOT affix the assembled cab to the cab front/boiler casting.  As noted on the pilot model, affix two hinges to the inside, vertical frames in the cab, along the inner sash.  Affix the other two hinge pieces on the inside of the cab windows as noted in the photo.  You may need to file the hinge brackets to fit along the vertical window pane. At this time you need to decide if you want operational windows. If so, you need to apply small hinge pins from the kits wire through the hinge assemblies while you have the windows aligned with the cab.  If not, solder/ACC into place. 

I chose to mount the cylinder guard onto the assembled cab.   You can either mount the guard to the assembled cab, or to the cab front/boiler casting as noted on the pilot model.  I chose to mount mine to the assembled cab so I could achieve an even closer fit and finish.  If you choose to do what I did, you cannot install the steam supply, steam exhaust or brake stand in place/onto the boiler until dead last… and, you will not be able to remove the assembled cab to show off your backhead detail.  I found this a moot point and minor detail since the cab gets screwed into place and therefore, you will not be able to quickly and easily remove the cab to show off the detail.  However, it does provide a better fit and finish of the cylinder guard to the cab.  At this time you can apply the bell and whistle pull chords.  Please check for fit and finish of the boiler and cab assembly to the stock chassis at this point.  YOU WILL NEED to drill a hole in the bottom of the boiler to accept the original boiler mounting screw.  To accomplish this, I aligned and carefully check the fit and finish of the boiler and cab to the mounting tabs of the rear of the cab, and used a fine point Sharpie marker to mark where the mounting hole needs to be.  Drill and tap the hole.  Using the original mounting screw you reinstalled into the stock boiler, mount the boiler in place and check alignment. 

It is now time to install the backhead appliances. If you are not so familiar with a Shay’s backhead, please note the pilot model pictures included for part placement. I chose to solder these pieces into place and solder the water feed (wire) from the water glass ends in place as well.  When applying the injectors, if you anneal the wrapped piping, it will bend much easier.  Please not the holes you drilled for the injector plumbing.  The pre-bent wire will need to pass through later to the injectors.  You will need to solder the pre-bent injector piping to the check valves.  Adjust the length, pass one end through the cab front, into the injector and affix the valves to the boiler.  Check mounting holes in the bottom of the assembled cab and tap them if needed.  Test fit the cab to the chassis with the mounting screws.

 

You are nearly completed and have some choices to think about before sending the assembled modules to paint.  Now would be a great time to install PNP sound if you have not and check the running quality of the mechanism.  You need to choose what fuel source you will use and remember to bring the fuel boards or oil bunker to paint as well.  At this time, I installed the headlight bracket, headlight, bulb and wiring into place on the boiler.  I put a small piece of tape inside the headlight to cover the bulb.  If you chose to mount the cylinder guard to the cab as I did, DO NOT apply the steam supply and steam exhaust yet.  After painting, lettering and weathering of your choice, you may apply the steam supply and exhaust once you fit the assembled cab piece onto the cab front and boiler assembly.  Mount the modules, connect the headlight wiring and enjoy!

PICTURES OF KOREAN ASSEMBLED SAMPLE MODELS BELOW